Historically, Exarcheia is the quarter for protests and uprisings. This is where the students of the Polytechnic organised the first riots against the military dictatorship in 1973 and it was from here that those of 2008 also started. Today, bohemians and alternative-lifestyle seekers can be found in cafés and streets marked by walls covered in graffiti and slogans. Some are political, some very poetic. Each evokes, through their lines and colours, a changing world that is reinventing itself through art. Unlike some graffiti that covers long stretches of wall, these cover a door or a storefront, and are more figurative than abstract. If you do not have a very practiced eye, it is sometimes difficult to identify a particular artist, but fun is always present. In the heart of Exarcheia, a residence opened specifically for journalists and photojournalists, the first of its kind in the world.