Historically, Exárcheia is the quarter for protests and uprisings. This is where the students of the Polytechnic organised the first riots against the military dictatorship in 1973 and it was from here that those of 2008 also started. Today, bohemians and alternative-lifestyle seekers can be found in cafés and streets marked by walls covered in graffiti and slogans. Some are political, some very poetic. Each evokes, through their lines and colours, a changing world that is reinventing itself through art. Unlike some graffiti that covers long stretches of wall, others cover a door or a storefront and are more figurative than abstract. With a trained eye, you may be able to identify a particular artist, which adds to the fun. In the heart of Exárcheia, you will also find a residence opened specifically for journalists and photojournalists, the first of its kind in the world.